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Gem-A
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(South East
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Branch)
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S.E. Branch Conference in Idar-Oberstein
by Peter Wates
photos by Peter Wates unless otherwise noted
Over the Bank Holiday weekend at the end of May 2004, the South East Branch held its first
Annual Conference in Idar-Oberstein, Germany.
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On Friday 28th May, the participants gathered at London Stanstead for the late-morning,
1-hour flight into Frankfurt Hahn. On arrival, the weather was warm and sunny and it was to
remain so for the whole weekend. Apart from a minor delay in locating the coach, a relatively
short drive took us to the Sonnenhof Hotel in the
small village of Veitsrodt, situated just a few kilometres outside of Idar.
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| After check-in followed by an hour or so to rest and unpack, there was a brief
guided tour of Idar-Oberstein together with an opportunity to visit some of the more
“tourist-oriented” shops.
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| shopping in Idar
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| The Conference started that evening with an excellent, pre-dinner talk from David Lancaster
entitled “Idar-Oberstein’s Influence on 19th & 20th Century Jewellery”. David’s presentation
was accompanied by numerous, wonderfully illustrative slides and was warmly received by the
appreciative audience which included our dinner guest, the world famous gem cutter and artist,
Bernd Munsteiner.
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| David Lancaster
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Further images of the evening can be found here
| On Saturday morning, our first visit was to
Atelier Munsteiner to see the studio and workshop of Bernd and his son, Tom who is
also a highly gifted cutter and artist with his own unique style. Following a warm
welcome with a glass of ice-cold Champagne, we were privileged to be given a guided
tour of their premises.
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| Atelier Munsteiner
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| Having to cater with large and small pieces alike, the workshop is equipped with lapidary
machines capable of working within fine tolerances.
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| Bernd Munsteiner
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| We were talked through the many stages involved in turning a piece of rough material into a work of
art – whether destined to be a piece of jewellery, a sculpture or part of a wall-mounted
“Panel-Picture”.
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| Bernd with rough quartz
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We then had the opportunity to view finished pieces as unset stones or mounted into jewellery
designed and crafted by Tom’s wife, Jutta who is a highly talented goldsmith in her own right.
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| cut stones
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| finished jewellery
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Further images of this visit can be found here.
Some of Bernd’s best-known works are currently on exhibition (“Bernd Munsteiner, Reflexionen
in Stein”) at the Rheinisches Landesmuseum
in the nearby city of Trier. It is well worth a visit if you are in the area and a
review by David Lancaster appears in the September issue of Gem & Jewellery News.
| The afternoon saw us at the showrooms of Friedrich August Becker as guests of the
internationally renowned Gerhard Becker and his son, Andreas who is himself a Master
Gem Cutter. In addition to being able to wander freely around the many showcase-lined
rooms to view the treasures within, we also benefited immensely from Gerhard’s great
knowledge of Idar’s history as well as his experiences of his many gem-buying trips to
Brazil and other localities.
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| Becker showcase
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On show were fine gem carvings and other objets d’art together with numerous cut gems and
mineral specimens – not forgetting trays of assorted goodies which proved to be a “rootler’s”
paradise!
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| Becker showcase
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| Becker showcase
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| We were delighted to welcome Gerhard back that evening when he gave us a highly informative and
beautifully illustrated talk on “The Cameo Carvers of Idar-Oberstein” which dealt with the
history and development of the art in Idar.
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| Gerhard and Andreas Becker
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Sunday was a day of short visits. Our first stop was
Steinkaulenberg,
Europe’s only gem mine open to the public. Although no longer in production, it was a major
source of quartz gemstones which supplied the local cutting industry until the influx of cheap
Brazilian material made production uneconomical. Overlooking the beautiful countryside, the mine
is a popular tourist attraction.
Once we had kitted-up with a compulsory hard-hat, we made our way with our English-speaking
guide to one of the well-maintained entrances set into the hillside.
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| South East Branch members at Steinkaulenberg
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| at the mine entrance
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| Located in a volcanic plug, the mine consists of a warren on hand-hewn tunnels in
the hillside. Our guide took us around a small part of the mine, explaining its history and mode of
excavation.
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| map of the mine
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| The gem deposits arose when gas pockets that were formed during the volcanic eruption were
subsequently filled with quartz minerals by the influx of silica-rich solutions.
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| deposit of quartz
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| The tunnels were not dug in a haphazard manner but followed the linear arrangement of
amygdaloidal (almond-shaped) nodules, with the blunt ends of the nodules indicating the
direction of the original lava flow.
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| quartz nodules showing the direction of lava flow
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| Just before leaving the mine, there was an interesting exhibit of mining tools as well as
several display cases full of examples of the mine’s production.
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| mineral samples
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Further images of Steinkaulenberg and the mine tour may be found here.
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Weiherschleife, a working example of one of the traditional cutting mills which employed
huge, water-driven gritstone wheels on which all of the early cutting was performed. Being
water-powered, the mills were all situated on the banks of the local streams. This image shows
the location of numerous, former mills.
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| Weiherschleife
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| In order to ensure a supply of power for the day’s work, each mill would store water
overnight in its own pond.
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| water storage for the mill
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| Having first watched a couple of films in the nearby showroom, we walked over to the
refurbished mill where we witnessed a demonstration of the working of agate against wheel.
The position of the cutter looked very uncomfortable but was apparently adopted for many
hours per day and the quality of the finished articles is a testimony to the immense
skill of those early cutters.
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| lapidary at the mill wheel
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Further images of the Weiherschleife visit may be found here
Many fine examples of this early production, together with more modern work were on show
at the Edelstein Museum which was our next
destination. Spread over three floors, the exhibits consist of wonderful examples of gems
from around the globe together with superb, hand-fashioned agate bowls and gem carvings
as well as fine, ancient and modern cameos and intaglios. Unfortunately, no images are
available as photography was not permitted.
| That evening, Jürgen Henn of Gebrüder Henn was our guest for a traditional Spiessbraten
dinner. The recipe, which originated in Brazil, was brought back by gem dealers and
explorers and consists of specially marinated meats cooked over an open beech-wood fire.
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| spiessbraten grill
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| The end result, washed down with liberal helpings of excellent German wine,
was savoured by all of the carnivorous members of the group.
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| South East Branch dinner
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Further pictures of the evening may be found here.
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Monday, being a Bank Holiday in Germany as well as in the U.K., was the final day of the
conference. We were very grateful that Jürgen was prepared to open his premises on the
Bank Holiday and we were given an entertaining tour around his showroom during which he
gave us an insight into how he had acquired the material from which each piece was
fashioned.
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| Jurgen Henn
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| Fine gemstone carvings and objets d’art were on display together with mineral specimens of
the highest quality. This wonderful piece is a carving of a polar bear in frosted rock
crystal and was approximately 12 cm high.
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| rock crystal polar bear by Gebrüder Henn
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We were also extremely fortunate that Jürgen was able to show us many large, superb
quality examples of cut gems such as Tsavorite, spessartine, aquamarine, Paraiba
tourmaline and sapphire – all of which are extremely rare in such sizes.
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The suite of Tsavorites ranged upwards from 68.58 ct (second from right) to 144.44 ct (left).
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| Tsavorites
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| The aquamarine was from the famous Santa Maria Mine in Brazil. The mine ceased production
in 1930 and Jurgen was very fortunate to have been offered a parcel of rough that had been
kept safe in a bank vault for many years. The stone weighed approximately 400 ct.
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| Aquamarine from the Santa Maria mine
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Further images from the showroom visit may be found here
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We then had a couple of hours to look around the town and one of the interesting places to
visit is the Felsenkirche,
a church set into the rock face which overlooks the twin town.
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| Felsenkirche
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| Built in the second half of the 15th Century, it is a brisk uphill walk but the interior
is well worth the effort and you are also rewarded with a good view.
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| Felsenkirche triptych
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Further images of the Felsenkirche may be found here
The afternoon return flight from Hahn brought to an end our first conference which was
considered by all to be a most enjoyable and successful event. On behalf of the delegates,
the S.E. Branch committee would like to express our gratitude to all of our speakers
and to our German hosts for their kind assistance and generous hospitality.
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